Ukrainian national clothing part 3

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Women's hairstyles

Hairstyle, hats and jewelry played an important role in women life. The most common hairstyle was hair braiding in 1 or 2 braids, which were intertwined with colored ribbons or strips. On the Left Bank, on weekdays, girls braided hair in braids, and put them on head in wreath-type. During holidays they leave braid. On the Right bank, during holidays, girls braided hair in two braids. Also on the Right bank of the girls separated front section of hair, and this was divided into two curls on the sides of the forehead. In wreath-type hairstyles girls often intertwined flowers.

Other hairstyles were collecting hair knot behind, folded in two braids wreath, braided plaits over the ears, and the girls of Lemkivshchyna - ethnic territory of Ukraine – don’t use braids and wreaths.

During summer, girls walked bareheaded, but on holidays they wore wreaths or decorated hair with stripes. Girls used Chilce - wire with copper plates. They put it under the wreath since the time of Kyivan Rus.

Married women twisted hair or lay it around the head.

 

Girl with 1 braid

 

Girl with 1 braid and wreath 

Girl with wreath

 
1 more girl 

Women’s headdresses

Popular women's headdress was hustka. Depending on the region, hustkas had their own designs, colors, ways of tying and making.

The oldest women's headdress was Namitka - long white canvas. Each region had its name canvas and the way assembly. Namitka often combined with other elements of women's headdress.

Common were Ochipky - headdress with a cloth or silk, which covered the hair. It could be different forms. For example in the Kyiv region ochipok was high, in the form of hat.

 

Girl with hustka

 

Hustka 

 

Women with namitka

 

Different types of Ochipky

Jewelry

A common was a necklace. In each region, it consisted of different parts: glass, amber, coins, beads. Neck decorations were Zhardy - neck ornaments with copper crosses.

With copper, silver or gold were produced bracelets, rings or jewelry in the ears.

 

Zhardy and necklace

Men's hairstyles, headdresses and jewelry

A common man's hairstyle was cutting hair to the one height; cutting the hair around the head, and leaving behind. This hairstyle replaced the previously popular hairstyle "Oseledets". In Polissya region beard was worn by young and old men, in the Carpathians – only by older people. On the other ethnic territories our ancestors left only a mustache.

 

Man with oseledets

Popular was type of headdress - Kuchma - hemispherical cap made of sheep skin, Kapturky - wool caps, Klepani - caps of loth with fox fur, straw Bryli, Kartuzy.

Men wore chains with crosses and rings.

 

Man with mustache and kuchma

  

Old straw Bryl' master

This is only a short overview of the most common types of clothes, hairstyles and jewelry. Researchers, who specialize in this subject, can tell you much more. I made only a general overview of the topic to reveal to you a few features of Ukrainian culture.

And finally, if you ant to see more, please check this video. Cool video and beautiful Ukrainian song.

Ukrainian national clothing part 2

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Shirt (Sorochka)

The shirt was and is, perhaps, the most national part of clothing. Its main color was and remains white.

Sorochky were made from hemp or linen, or mixtures thereof. They were also produced with 2,3 or 4 pieces of canvas.

Different Shirts had their own characteristics and differed in manufacturing. They could be with wide, narrow and without sleeves. In Slavs the most common was a long shirt. They wore it over pants. Shirts were both: male and female. Most of our ancestors liked to decorate shirts with embroidery. Ornament and its location were varied. Because of specific elements, people could know where this man is from, and how good are people embroidery skills (different designs, colors, embroidery machines).

 

Chemise (Vyshyvanka)

 Skirt (male Vyshyvanka)

Belt wear

Belt clothes had several varieties. The oldest of them consisted of two stitched together pieces of cloth. There were also large woolen clothes.

Belt clothes had different names: Plakhta, Derg, Phota. They differ from each other by style clothing production and individual elements.

In the late 19th century became popular skirts (Spidnytsia), which also had several names depending on the shape and material sewing.

The female waist clothing was also apron (Fartuh).

Men’s belt clothing - pants - was inherent in all Slavic peoples. In Ukraine pants were of two types - with broad and narrow. Common types of pants were Sharowary. They were comfortable for riding. Linen and wool pants often decorated with colorful threads.

 

Plahta 

Fartuh

 

Sharowary

Breast clothing

Breast clothing divided depending on the material from which it was made. This could be cloth, fur, woolen cloth and their combination.

The oldest wearing was sleeveless (Bezrukavka), which, depending on the characteristics of production had its specific name due to a particular region. Bezrukavky were short and long. They were worn by both men and women. Also, our ancestors liked to decorate it with different patterns and ornaments.

Common clothes were also Kamizelky and Kirsetky, vests (Zhylety).

 

Female bezrukavka

Outerwear
In Ukraine, there was a large variety of clothing. It’s made of cloth, canvas or leather.

Cloak-looks clothing was widespread, and the oldest of them was Gulya, which was worn in the days of Kyivan Rus.

In the Hutsul people popular was a kind of Gulya - Manta - wide, long clothing with a hood.

Certain varieties of cloak-looks clothes were Chugai and Hunya.

A common dress as male and female was Serdak, Svyta. Svyta was decorated with ornaments, and its dimensions were different, depending on the region where it was common.

The oldest clothes were Kaptany – with long sleeves and buttons.

Common winter clothing was Kozhuh. Each ethnic region had their Kozhuh features associated with patterns and sewing.

 

Kozhuh

 

Kaptan

Belts
Belts were an important part of clothing. In each region, it had its own peculiarities. Belts were made of leather, wool, flax or hemp. They differ in the way of manufacturing.

Men's belts were usually wide and braided. Women belts were usually narrow and woven.

Some types of belts had buttons, pockets.

Footwear
From the 17th to the 19th century among the Ukrainians were popular 5 types of footwear: Choboty, Cherevyky, Lychaky (Bast), Postoly, Khodaky.

Postoly - stitched pieces of soft leather. They differ according to their appearance in the region. Lychaky - shoes with primitive bast. Types of boots – choboty - were made of sapjan, which could be red, green or yellow and the leather that was black. Boots were decorated with patterns, color lines and so on.

The main different between choboty and cherevyky was the method of making them.

 

Postoly

 

Ukrainian girls

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Ukrainian national clothing part 1

National clothing is one of the main elements of the ethnic group. In ancient Ukrainian clothing also played ceremonial, social or gender-age features.

The first function, however, was protective. It is the oldest, because the first task was to protect body from cold, insect bites or other irritations. Number and type of clothing depended on different climatic conditions in which our ancestors lived.

In the Carpathians, common breast sleeveless dress was sleeveless fur (keptar), the hill - it was made from cloth. People from Precarpathians (Boyky, Hutsuly, Lemky) had leather shoes, which corresponded to the climatic characteristics of the region.

 

Keptar

 Hutsuly

Great importance was also ceremonial function. Our ancestors believed that the world is populated by powerful spirits, the living dead, and lot of good and evil magic. That’s why clothes and meet old ideas, but some of its elements were designed to protect people from the effects of evil spirits. For example, it was embroidery. It was applied to shirts and other items. Location, colors and ornaments served as amulets or protective elements. Security elements were girls’ wreaths and ribbons. Over time, the role of guarding of many elements was forgotten. Ancestors began to wear and paint clothes for aesthetic appearance (to look good).

Some of clothes performing ritual function. For example, in wedding, maternity or funeral rites. These elements included towels (Rushnyky), Kachachi; Kryzhmo; white or black Hustka.

In some ceremonies people wearing clothes worn inside out, wearing clothes of the opposite sex, wore coat in summer, or performed certain rituals being naked.

The colors and decorations were also important. In our ancestors wedding color was red and white – it was funeral. But, since the 19-20 century, under the influence of Europe, our ancestors began to use white for weeding and black for funeral.

Clothing can show you the ethnic group to which the person belongs. Indeed, in various ethnic groups clothes had some differences. Eventually Hutsul or Volyn costumes began the Ukrainian national. Clothing could also determine the origin of man, his social status.

Certain items of clothing could wear only old people, children or unmarried girls. Women often wore headscarves (hustky), while unmarried girls wore wreaths (vinky), thus showing their marital status.

The main types of clothes were: Underwear, waist, chest, upper, belt, shoes and headdresses.

 

Girl with wreath (vinok)

 

Rushnyk

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Український національний одяг частина 3

Попередня сторінка

Жіночі зачіски

Велике значення для жінок мали зачіски, головні убори та прикраси.

Найбільш поширеною зачіскою було заплітання волосся в 1 чи 2 коси, в які вплітались різнокольорові стрічки чи смужки тканини. На Лівобережжі, в будні дні, дівчата заплітали волосся в коси, і вкладали їх у вигляді вінка. У свята залишали косу. На Правобережжі в святкові дні дівчата заплітали волосся у 2 коси. Також на Правобережжі дівчата відокремлювали спереду пасмо волосся, яке розділяли на 2 локони по боках чола. У вінкоподібні зачіски часто вплітали квіти.

 

Українка з косою та вінком

 

2 коси

 

Дівчина у вінку

 Дівчата

 Іншими зачісками були збирання волосся в вузол ззаду, складені в вінок 2 коси, заплітали коси над вухами, а дівчата Лемківщини – етнічної території України – не збирали волосся в коси і не одягали вінків.

Влітку дівчата ходили з непокритою головою, на свята одягали вінки чи прикрашали волосся стрічками. Дівчата використовували чільце – дріт з мідними пластинками, який носили під вінком ще з часів Київської Русі.

Заміжні жінки волосся скручували чи укладали навколо голови.

Жіночі головні убори

Поширеним жіночим головним убором були хустки. Залежно від регіону, хустки мали свої орнаменти, кольори, способи їх зав’язування та виготовлення.

Найдавнішим жіночим одягом була намітка – довге біле полотно. В кожному регіоні полотно мало свою назву та спосіб складання. Намітка часто поєднувалась з іншими елементами жіночого головного убору.

Поширеними були очіпки – верхній головний убір з полотна чи шовку, який закривав волосся. Він міг бути різних форм. Наприклад на Київщині очіпок був високим у формі шапки.

 

Дівчина в хустці

 

Хустка

 

Дівчина з наміткою

 

Очіпок

Прикраси

Поширеною прикрасою було намисто. В кожному регіоні воно складалось з різних деталей: скла, бурштину, монет, бісеру. Нашийними прикрасами були згарди – нашийні прикраси з мідними хрестиками.

З міді, срібла чи золота виготовлялись браслети, персні чи прикраси на вуха.

 

Згарди та намисто

Чоловічі зачіски, убори і прикраси

Поширеною чоловічою зачіскою було підрізання волосся на одну висоту та обрізання волосся навколо голови, та залишення ззаду. Ця зачіска витіснила популярну раніше зачіску «оселедець». В регіоні Полісся бороду носили старі й молоді чоловіки, в районі Карпат – лише старші люди. На інших етнічних територіях залишали лише вуса.

 

Оселедець

З головних уборів поширення набули кучма – напівсферична шапка з овечої шкіри, каптурки – вовняні ковпаки, клепані – шапки з сукна з лисячим хутром, солом’яні брилі, картузи.

Чоловіки одягали ланцюжки з хрестиками, каблучки та персні.

 

Чоловік з вусами та в кучмі

Це лише короткий огляд найбільш поширених видів одягу, зачісок та прикрас. Детальніше розкажуть дослідники, котрі спеціалізуються в цій темі. Я зробив лише загальний огляд теми, щоб відкрити вам ще кілька особливостей української культури.

Перегляньте відео на пісню Тартак&Гуляйгород - Мій народ. У ньому вміщено безліч відповідних до теми фото. І Марія Бурмака :)